Monday 20th December 2021
Excellence - Responsabilité - Créativité
Alors que le modèle social français est encore mis à mal cette année, le rapport sur l’avenir du luxe français pour le Comité Colbert conduit par Stéphane Truchi, Remy Oudghiri de GROUPE IFOP confirme que le luxe à la française reste, quant à lui, une valeur sûre.
Ainsi, le luxe français reste très bien perçu par les consommateurs, notamment aux Etats-Unis, en Chine et en France.
À la question "Selon vous, quelles seront les principales caractéristiques du luxe français dans les 5 prochaines années ?", les réponses des consommateurs font ressortir 3 valeurs majeures et axes de croissance :
- L’excellence, caractéristique n°1 aux Etats-Unis et en France
- La responsabilité, caractéristique n°1 en Chine
- La créativité, caractéristique n°2 aux Etats-Unis et en France
Excellence - Responsibility - Creativity
Despite the recent hurdles for the French social model, the French luxury industry remains a solid value, as confirmed by a report for Comité Colbert.
According to this survey, it is indeed very well perceived by consumers from the USA, from China and from France.
To the question "What do you think will be the characteristics of French luxury in the next 5 years ?", their answers emphasize 3 key values and growth drivers:
- Excellence (1st for the USA and France)
- Responsibility (1st for China)
- Creativity (2nd for the USA and France)
Wednesday 15th December 2021
La France des Solutions
La France des solutions - Nation créative
Evénement organisé par Reporters d'Espoirs / Reporters of Hope représentée par Gilles Vanderpooten, en partenariat avec 50 médias et présenté par François Saltiel autour du thème de la créativité, à la Maison de la Radio et de la Musique (Paris).
21 intervenants dont :
- Zabou breitman sur l’émotion et l’impression comme déclencheurs de créativité
- Philippe Starck sur la créativité comme moteur de positivité
- Macha Gharibian sur le plaisir que procurent la créativité, la musique et l’improvisation en particulier
- Dominique Labilloy sur l’innovation et la créativité chez Saint-Gobain, sur les nouveaux usages et la durabilité, l’innovation viable née d’une « étincelle » collective et d’un équilibre entre standardisation/industrialisation et comment faire mieux et différemment - un des enjeux majeurs de nos entreprises, sur la nécessité de comprendre les besoins de demain et sur le monde décarboné
- Sébastien Bohler sur la neuroscience de la créativité, sur la sérendipité, l’attrait de la nouveauté, la liberté divagatoire puis les filtres/structures/formes posés par le cortex frontal, sur le temps de l’inaction, du vagabondage, sur la mémoire, la recherche de la connaissance, sur l’étonnement, l’émerveillement
- Cynthia Fleury-Perkins sur l’élaboration imaginative, sur les soins apportés à l’autorisation créative auprès de l’enfant, sur la théorie de la conception C-K, sur le temps propre et le repos
- Mélanie PERON de L’Effet Papillon sur le médicament numérique Bliss Digital Therapeutics qui améliore la qualité de vie des patients et les soulage de leur douleur
- Inès Mesmar, DG de La Fabrique NOMADE, sur l’intégration par la créativité des personnes ayant le statut de réfugiés et par la valorisation de leurs savoir-faire et de leur artisanat
- Sara Mortensen sur le « Made in France » et la réindustrialisation du territoire national
- Antoine Jouteau, CEO de Leboncoin.fr, sur le digital au service de l’économie locale et de la revalorisation de la proximité
- Myriam Joly de Atelier Missegle sur les valeurs d’adaptabilité et de résilience par la créativité, l’appréciation du travail et les initiatives écologiques, sociales et économiques
- Pierre Nougué sur la richesse des territoires et notre reconnexion avec les solutions locales
Monday 13th December 2021
CY Ecole de Design
Déchets et recyclage :
le parcours usager et l’accompagnement aux changements de pratiques
Quelle belle problématique proposée par Communauté d'agglomération de Cergy Pontoise et qui s’est soldée par la présentation du 1er projet design de leur carrière pour les étudiants de 1ère année Design Global de CY Ecole de Design !
Le 1er projet en tant que futurs designers est toujours un moment marquant, d’autant plus quand il permet de poser un regard neuf, créatif, responsable et déjà professionnel sur de tels enjeux.
Félicitations aux étudiants pour leur travail !
Un grand merci à Mesdames Florence TALBOT, Frédérique Psenica et Audrey Lamperti pour l’échange et leur intérêt dans les solutions proposées par les étudiants.
Merci également à Dominique Sciamma, Isaac Francheteau et Sébastien Kunz pour la qualité des collaborations.
Enfin, merci à mon binôme Romain François-Marsal pour son suivi et son implication auprès des étudiants !
CY Ecole de Design
Thursday 18th November 2021
Rare and Precious
Rare et précieux
Comme d’autres maisons avant elle, la Maison Chanel a changé sa politique de vente de certains de ses articles les plus populaires, tels que les sacs Coco Handle et Classic Flap Bag, en limitant leur achat par un seul et même client.
Désormais, il ne sera possible d’acquérir qu’un seul sac par client et par an pour ces modèles iconiques. En gardant le contrôle sur l’offre face à une demande toujours aussi élevée, les marques de luxe visent à limiter la revente de leur produits sur le "marché gris".
Qu’est-ce que le marché gris ?
Souvent lié à d’importantes différences de taxation et de prix d’un pays à l’autre, le marché gris se développe dès lors que des biens sont échangés par le biais de canaux de distribution légaux mais non autorisés et non contrôlés par le fabricant ou le propriétaire d’origine.
Sur les 35 milliards de dollars dépensés par les consommateurs chinois en produits de luxe en 2020, 28 milliards l’auraient été sur le "marché gris" par l’intermédiaire de revendeurs.
Rare and precious
Like other luxury houses that have limited the number of products their customers can buy, Chanel has changed its sale policy for some of its most popular handbags: Coco Handle and Classic Flap Bag.
Each customer is now allowed to purchase only one of each of these iconic handbags per year. Recently, luxury brands have reinforced their control on supply while demand keeps very high, in response to the number of "grey market" resellers buying out stocks.
Often due to significantly higher taxes and prices in one country than another, the grey (or dark) market refers to goods sold outside the authorised distribution channels by entities that have no relationship with the original producer or owner of the goods.
80% of the 35 billion dollars spent in luxury products by Chinese consumers in 2020 are reportedly generated by the "grey market".
Tuesday 9th November 2021
Couvrez cet art que je ne saurais voir…
"Par de pareils objets les âmes sont blessées,
Et cela fait venir de coupables pensées." (Molière)
L’algorithme des réseaux sociaux, ce Tarfuffe des temps modernes, a encore frappé : la publication de la représentation artistique de la nudité est devenue quasiment impossible par les règles mises en vigueur par les principaux réseaux sociaux. En raison du contenu jugé trop explicite de l’exposition Modigliani, les musées de Vienne en Autriche ont décidé de se tourner vers la plateforme OnlyFans pour contourner la censure imposée par les principaux réseaux sociaux.
Outre une visibilité fortement diminuée et le recours à une plateforme sans doute moins appropriée et pas moins controversée, l’art limite de facto son accès à la population qui utilise les réseaux sociaux pour apprécier l’expression artistique sous toutes ses formes. Il y a surtout un véritable enjeu économique pour les musées, galeries d’art et artistes, dans la nécessité de communiquer, de faire connaître les oeuvres qu’ils exposent et créent, et bien sûr de donner envie de les voir, de les admirer, d’investir dans leur restauration et leur mise en valeur, de les acquérir.
Mais c’est surtout la liberté d’expression, celle de l’art - qui par définition même trouve son expression dans une pleine liberté - qui s’en trouve atteinte. L’intelligence artistique sera-t-elle toujours plus forte que l’intelligence artificielle ? Mais le sens sûr de l’Homme ne prévaudrait-il pas sur la censure de l'algorithme ?
"Cover up that bosom, which I can't endure to look on", Molière’s Tartuffe said.
350 years later, museums and art galleries regularly experience that social media ban their images of artworks featuring nudes. Due to the explicit content of their current exhibition by artist Modigliani, Austrian art museums opened an account on the controversial platform OnlyFans, a social network that permits depictions of nudity.
Artists, museums and galleries struggle to promote their art and to communicate about it on a tool as crucial today as social media. The stakes in this communication are high, because for those who fall under this censorship, it is much more difficult to attract visitors, art-enthusiasts, investors, buyers. But above all, this is the power of social media platforms to suppress artistic expression that is the crux of the debate. Who will win between human emotion sensor and AI censor?
Monday 25th October 2021
FIAC Luxe !
25 octobre 2006
Il y a 15 ans aujourd'hui, j'ai eu l'immense honneur de recevoir des mains de Monsieur Yves Carcelle, Président Directeur Général de Louis Vuitton de 1990 à 2012, le prix du concours "Jeunes Créateurs" organisé par le Comité Colbert.
En tant que lauréat, j'ai également eu le privilège de voir mon projet être exposé parmi d'autres projets de designers et d'artistes à la Cour Carrée du Musée du Louvre dans le cadre de la FIAC du 26 au 30 octobre 2006.
25 October 2006
15 years ago, a younger me was so honoured to receive from Mr. Yves Carcelle, CEO at Louis Vuitton from 1990 to 2012, the winning prize of the "Young Designers" contest organised by Comité Colbert.
Among other projects and pieces of art, my project was exhibited at the International Fair of Contemporary Art FIAC from 26 to 30 October 2006 in Cour Carrée of Musée du Louvre in Paris.
Thursday 21st October 2021
The Hand of Tomorrow
Demain en main
À une époque où beaucoup d'entre nous sont à la recherche d'authenticité et d'une manière apaisée de mieux vivre son activité professionnelle, de lui redonner un sens et de la reconnecter avec les autres et notre environnement, les métiers de la main se présentent comme des métiers d'avenir. J'en veux également pour preuve le besoin en main-d'œuvre des métiers d'art et la forte croissance du secteur du luxe.
La main est le premier outil de l'Homme, en arts comme en artisanat. Son retour en grâce - dans les écoles de création, les expositions d'art, les ateliers, la poignée de main qui réapparaît... - n'annonce t-il pas l'avènement d'émotions retrouvées par la capacité de la main à prendre, à donner, à recevoir, à exprimer ?
Sa dextérité, sa créativité, sa tactilité, son instinct, sa spontanéité, mais aussi sa charmante perfectibilité, lui assureront, à n'en pas douter, un bel avenir.
The hand of tomorrow
As most of us seek more authenticity and a better and more meaningful work-life balance that reconnects us to others and our environment, handcraft has a bright future. Hence, the booming demand for workforce in crafts and the fast-recovering and -growing luxury sector.
Our hand is the first human tool, in arts as well as in crafts. Will referring to it again - in design schools, art exhibitions, ateliers, the comeback of handshakes... - bring back some emotions that only our hand can reveal through its capacity to take, to give, to share, to shape?
Dexterity, creativity, tactility, instinct, spontaneity and also this charming perfectibility, are surely in our hands for tomorrow.
Tuesday 5th October 2021
Is Product back?
Is product (I mean real physical product) back?
I would like to share some signs of what could announce a strong comeback of product design and that I recently observed at my level:
- higher demand for coveted products from consumers, helping industries to bounce back and also causing even more tension in the supply chain
- higher demand from companies for product design across various categories and industries
- higher interest in designers’ profile with skills in conceiving physical products, with knowledge in materials, crafts and eco-design and in optimising industrial applications
- higher demand from students (including engineering) for being taught how to design products
- therefore higher demand from schools and universities for finding instructors to teach product design, product development, material properties and production
Products have always been inextricably bound up with the shopping experience.
Since digital accompanies and enhances the customer experience, the products may have been perceived as less important. However they truly remain at the heart of the emotion and the connection that are created with consumers.
It is probably even more true after months of limited physical presence in stores and physical contact with objects.
It is also interesting to note that arts and crafts - the world of products par excellence - is being a top performing business since the pandemic.
Is Product back for good?
At least, it embodies the change for the better that our industries desperately need.
Wednesday 29th September 2021
How to Foster Creativity?
Comment stimuler la créativité ?
Aujourd'hui, dans la belle aventure CY Ecole de Design, j'ai l'honneur de poser ma première pierre à cet édifice à la fois si impressionnant et gratifiant : libérer, par l'enseignement du sketch, l'expression créative des étudiants de 1ère année, designers de demain.
Et pour aborder ce défi de taille, je n'ai pas trouvé de mission plus inspirante et plus empreinte de sagesse et d'humilité que celle suggérée par Frank Lloyd Wright : créer une atmosphère dans laquelle la créativité et le talent créatif peuvent s'épanouir et grandir.
Il subsiste toutefois une différence importante : je suis enseignant et une partie de moi a sans doute toujours souhaité l'être.
Un grand merci à Dominique Sciamma pour l'opportunité d'être un stimulateur de créativité auprès des étudiants de CY Ecole de Design !
How to foster creativity?
Today I have the great pleasure and honour to teach sketching to design students at CY Ecole de Design.
This is probably one of the biggest educational challenges I have been given so far, and this quote by Frank Lloyd Wright perfectly sums up the mission I throw myself into with both conviction and humility: creating an atmosphere in which students' creativity and talent can grow.
There is one major difference though: I am a teacher and a part of me always wanted to teach.
Many thanks to Dominique for this great opportunity to challenge students and myself in stimulating creativity!
Tuesday 14th September 2021
Leather VS Synthetics
Referring to the Sustainable Leather Forum that took place in Paris earlier this week, there are still controversies and biased judgments around leather. And this haunting question remains: how can we assess its carbon footprint?
Transparency is key in the choice that a more eco-friendly fashion industry has to make: natural materials or man-made materials? leather or synthetics? Replacing the first with the latter is often done for the wrong reasons. These trendy, yet plastic-based materials, also pose serious environmental threads. It also takes away from the products the luxury and durability of leather, through "decontenting", as seen in the car industry. When leather and synthetic materials are compared from an ecological perspective, we have to honestly look at all pros and cons of both parties, based on the following criteria:
- Carbon footprint: leather is a by-product from the meat industry, and therefore its impact is difficult to compare to man-made materials. The carbon footprint of the food industry, from which leather is sourced, is already complex and the exact calculation of the real carbon footprint of leather is still uncertain. It is also true that the carbon footprint of leather production has been steadily reduced over the last 30 years, and that efforts in animal welfare, traceability, treatments and waste are still to be made.
- Durability: looked after properly, leather products can last a lifetime (or longer). It can also be refurbished and repurposed. In many cases, it is more difficult to repurpose the synthetic materials.
- Versatility: depending on how it is treated, leather can offer multiple usages and facets, while synthetic alternatives are less adaptable and do not age the same way as leather does.
Not to mention the look and feel: natural (leather) VS more uniform (synthetics) are proposed to consumers. In the age of information (and sometimes of inaccurate evidence), it appears that education and promoting knowledge of materials and their properties are essential to inspire consumers to have an appropriate perception of what they are getting.
For the leather industry and for the sake of its contribution to the circular economy, the answer to the challenge it is facing may well be as simple as: tell and share the story of leather. Where does leather come from? How is it made? Why do we use it? How can we improve its transformation process? Most consumers agree with the fact that leather looks beautiful and qualitative. But leather, although not perfect, is also a natural material that facilitates the circular economy, by preventing an ecological disaster of dumping hides in landfills and stopping the need for artificial and plastic-based materials.
So, why is leather left behind by some of the fashion industry leaders?
Saturday 11th September 2021
In Loving Memory
We all remember where we were and what we were doing on that day 20 years ago.
A day that sadly marked and shockingly changed forever our perception of the world.
Remembering all those who lost their lives that day and those who endured the dark consequences that followed.
Tuesday 7th September 2021
What's Beautiful here?
What's beautiful here?
What took your breath away this week?
Here are questions to ask ourselves more often.
David P. Fessel and Karen Reivich explain in an interesting article in the Harvard Business Review why creating "awe experiences" refreshes our energy, calms our anxieties, improves collaboration, boosts creativity and nurses our well-being.
This is also to be linked to some previous articles about kindness at work.
So, when was the last time you felt awed?
And by what?
Sunday 5th September 2021
Creativity and Spontaneity
"Spontaneity is a meticulously prepared art." (Oscar Wilde)
For a couple of years, I have been challenged with this question: how to teach creativity?
And more importantly: how to foster creativity and to implement a creative process in teams and organizations?
Talent has to be there, of course.
But can an art be taught?
At least, we can help it grow.
As for almost everything, the way to get results is to have the best possible process.
"The creative process is first based on the firm conviction that everything is a source of inspiration; there is no limit nor end to getting inspired. Secondly, I strongly believe that in the creative process, spontaneity should play its role like it does in the arts and all achievements in life."
And you, do you value creativity?
Do you also believe in spontaneity?
How would you create an environment in which a talent can grow?
Tuesday 31st August 2021
The Call for Local
"How to find a manufacturer?" is a question frequently asked by students and clients. More than ever, the question is crucial for the strategy of a brand and also for its customers' experience. With additional challenges in the supply chain since the pandemic, the return to local sourcing and production is seen as a solution for a more sustainable growth. But, inevitably, a new question arises: what is local for global businesses?
Low cost VS local?
Among the interesting reads of this summer, an article in The Guardian is enriched with various interviews and with the beautiful example of Temperley London. This quintessentially British label has indeed the legitimacy to epitomise the best of manufacturing in Britain. We can only praise this positive change that designers and manufacturers now share the spotlight. And with the rising awareness (and interest) of the consumers for how their products are made and how much impact they have on the environment and the welfare of the workers, local manufacturing makes a strong comeback.
If we accept to design responsibly and smartly, producing more locally is an exciting challenge. Hand in hand, manufacturers and designers can do it, as long as they are given the chance to collaborate together and to do what they are good at: finding viable technical solutions, creating products that are locally feasible or that can be adapted to what is available locally and at a reasonable cost, without a target cost given inappropriately and often disconnected from what consumers want. They are meant to understand each other: manufacturers respect creativity and new optimising ideas, while designers know techniques, materials’ properties, craftsmanship and industrialisation. For those who know my convictions and those who attend my courses, you may see this as the long-awaited opportunity for designers to restore and use again - beyond style - their technical and business skills.
Tuesday 27th July 2021
... and Design Responsibly
Do you always anticipate the consequences of your decisions? Do you systematically consider the pros and cons of your actions? When you seek a solution to a problem, you seek the best possible answer to a question. It seems obvious that your answer has to solve the problem you identified at first. But it also has to NOT generate an additional problem that can turn out to be even bigger than the one you have just solved.
Albert Einstein wisely said: "We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used when we created them." As shown by the "rebound effect" for instance, some answers that look like - or that are supposedly - solutions can actually be sources of future dysfunctions and harmful issues for our planet, people or organizations. This is also why when a so-called solution is found, it is required that this solution is thought through and integrated in a process, a virtuous circle that makes it a viable solution with a limited amount of "waste" along the process.
But if this "waste" is anticipated as such in a creative process, it can become the raw material or the "fuel" for another process, another solution, another idea and both processes can eventually feed each other. Designing a solution, product, process, anything, requires skills. Creativity is often mentioned as the 1st skill. But, anticipation, care, responsibility are equally important as the pillars on which you can confidently base your innovation, your solutions and your new designs.
To design responsibly means to be conscious. To care about humans, our environment, our past, our future. To conceive in an ethical manner. To do things with a purpose. With a long-term vision. Not necessarily to produce more, but to produce smarter and better. Also because we would consequently produce less new inextricable problems. Instead we'll inevitably produce new problems, but problems for which we have limited the impact upfront and for which a solution is already in preparation and in the DNA of the newly introduced product: can it be repaired? Replaced? Have a 2nd life? For which future usage?
Today's designs made with anticipation, care and responsibility lead to tomorrow's sustainability and success. The sustainable design trend is not something new for those who have been committed to design responsibly. It is in their methodology to source the most appropriate materials, to optimize industrialization and reduce impacts (e.g. difficult working conditions, pollution, costs, etc), to balance production and sobriety/scarcity. So that a new product is not a new unusable waste. Design is a key lever in any CSR strategy. It helps to reframe your thinking, to anticipate, to evaluate benefits and consequences, to Create and Source Responsibly.
And this can be the definition of CSR from a designer's perspective.
Thursday 22nd July 2021
Leitz Phone 1
For enthusiasts. For connoisseurs. For aesthetes.
Sharp eyes deserve the best lenses.
Smart talents deserve the best tools.
This embodies evolution and diversification at their finest. The evolution of an iconic brand and the diversification of its offer. Both totally make sense here.
Because the world evolves and deserves to be witnessed also with fresh eyes.
Icons are forever.
But the natural pursuit of innovation constantly writes a new chapter in the evolution of our world.
Here is another milestone for those brands with a great history, a pioneering spirit, a strong DNA and an authentic legacy, in their legitimacy to extend their ecosystem and give more chances to experience their world.
Because, quote, "Your story deserves to be told".
Every precious moment.
In the heat of the moment. Of the connection with the environment and with people. This is the beauty and magic of the photography experience.
Of the life experience.
So that all talents can be expressed and shared.
In an instant.
Because the talents of the world deserve witnesses.
Leitz Phone 1 by Leica Camera AG
Available in Japan only
Tuesday 20th July 2021
Back to Abnormal
"There's just nothing interesting... and nothing new".
As shopping resumes, consumers can't always find in the stores what they have been craving for, after months of lockdowns, restrictions, closed shops and online shopping.
The offer does not match their new mood and still reflects the pre-pandemic trends.
This comes as no surprise for those working in the fashion industry and it was predictable that many consumers will be disappointed when they can finally go back to their favorite retailers or visit the new brands they discovered and scrolled when they were stuck at home.
But what did you expect?
With many job cuts, designs being 2+ years old, almost no investment in novelty and now with production backlogs, global transportation bottlenecks and massive issues in supply chain, how to deal with the consumers having a high demand for new products matching their revised expectations, products that can make them forget about the past 18 months?
How long will they wait for the promised New Roaring Twenties, with more engagement and transparency in eco-conceived products?
The long-awaited return to a healthier business model for fashion has not been much anticipated and consolidated.
Clothing sales are up 35% compared to 2019 levels in the US. Surely, this was predictable and easy to forecast.
Unfortunately, some end-consumers may be frustrated and may turn their back on the brands that are not delivering now and that are late for this post-pandemic reunion.
Newly, better designed products, more human-centered and eco-friendly solutions will define a more desirable offer and bring consumers' interest back.
In some areas, creativity and new trends seem to have been neglected during the pandemic.
As stores welcome customers back, it is now time to put novelty back on the shelves. But creativity and new developments require time...
It can't be "back to normal".
It has to be "back to a new extraordinary".
Business of Fashion
Thursday 15th July 2021
Keep Calm and Pioneer Trends
"If you want to be original, be ready to be copied." (Gabrielle Chanel)
Are you a trendsetter or a follower? Do you gamble or play safe? To follow is to make no own choice, to share risks, to be a substitute for your competitors. But also to be replaceable. To initiate new trends is sometimes to be, first and foremost, misunderstood. But also to be irreplaceable for a little while - your window of opportunity. Then, to be followed and copied.
Followers may improve or better use the trends you pioneered, but the quintessence of the purpose they have at first been created for remains yours. You will be recognized and possibly remembered for being the one who triggered a new business opportunity.
Offtrack or less-traveled roads can often provide invaluable experience and unexpected perspectives. These unconventional paths are worth being explored, as they may lead to new and unprecedented successes. There are plenty of such examples in the design history and in the fashion industry.
Creativity is linked to greater innovation and to the search for greater performance, but also to one's true uniqueness, at least until one gets copied. On the contrary, a convergent thinking results in a narrower vision - or even no vision at all - and what it produces has no more potential than what it has been inspired from. Designing inclusive hiring practices is more frequently recognized as a performing way to create new opportunities. It is also seen in the design field with cross disciplines and multidisciplinary designers moving from one industry to another.
And designing exclusive products is to explore new potentials and to look to the future, rather than to settle for the attained objectives, either yours or your competitor's.
The demand for something already existing - and therefore potentially already outdated - remains limited, while a new trend will push boundaries and set a new unexplored potential, for which you can be "the first man on the moon". Experimentation requires creativity, time, patience, multiple sources of inspiration and culture, efforts, investment and desire to succeed. Runners-up are likely to be more creative, because they are less obsessed about following the leaders they will actually never be able to compete with and about rushing to catch-up... while leaders should keep this pioneering spirit and constantly challenge assumptions.
So, whose bread and butter would you eat? The ones that your competitors have prepared for themselves? Or will you bake your own bread and spread your own butter?
Thursday 1st July 2021
Keep Calm and Innovate Now
Why is innovation so important? Because it is the only thing for which you do not know where your competitors really stand.
In fact, there are only 2 options:
innovate or fade.
What do you know about your competitors? EVERYTHING (just look up on the internet)
Where can you sell your products and conquer new markets? EVERYWHERE
Who can you study, learn about and address to sell your products? EVERYONE
But still you cannot (always) anticipate your competitors' next move. Creativity, ideas, design-thinking, search for innovative solutions: this is the only area where you can be more advanced and beat your competitors.
Investing in new ideas for the future, in longer-term, more sustainable solutions and in unprecedented ways of making our life easier, safer, healthier, more ethical, or simply more enjoyable and beautiful: this is where we can make the difference with the forthcoming projects!
Although innovation can be initiated by anyone, it is always related to a form of creativity, a certain pioneering mindset, a "out-of-the-box" thinking, a determination to dare and take risks. Everyone can be creative - sometimes with a little bit of help. Thus, new concepts can emerge. Then, when these concepts require to be thought through, evaluated, tested, shaped into a desirable and functional offer, it is obviously advised to entrust creative experts along the value chain to make this innovation feasible and viable from a design, marketing, technical, sustainable, commercial perspective.
Yes, because innovation can truly be seen as innovation only when it ticks all the boxes, when it is done with a purpose and it does make sense.
Can an innovation that does not anticipate its coming consequences (and necessary updates) be really considered as such?
Creativity is about feeling the future changes in our society, the evolution of socio-cultural behaviours, tastes and desires. Innovators are no seers. No one is. But better than predicting the future is to shape it into something more positive that we - entrepreneurs, visionaries, scientists, designers, or simply optimists - can envisage and even dream of.
Now is always the most exhilarating and right time to innovate. The drawing board is our stage!
Tuesday 29th June 2021
Need your Help
Dear Peers, dear Friends,
May I have your attention please?
Social media are not only about professional activities and business.
It is also - and more importantly - about SOLIDARITY.
Our dear friend, ex-colleague, fellow designer and successful entrepreneur Jacqui Ma needs our help!
All of us can support her!
Jacqui is one of the strongest women I have had the chance to collaborate with. She is so talented, creative, fun and such a pleasant person to work with!
In 2012 she created her smart commuting accessories brand Goodordering based in London: goodordering.com
Although she is a great fighter and she has extraordinary strength, please give her some of your own strength and energy!
Please care, like, love, support, share, follow her brand Goodordering and speak about it, comment, order, distribute, or simply say hi and connect with her.
Every reaction, positive vibe and support addressed to Jacqui will be of great help to her and much appreciated!
After reading her latest post below, I am sure all of us can relate and it is important to express our affection and support here when a friend, a peer, a family member needs us:
"I need your help, if you also follow my personal account, you might have found out that I have been suffering from what I thought was a slipped disc in my back.
It turns out that my breast cancer from 2 years ago has been slowly attacking my bones, so has spread to stage 4 cancer in my back. Oh shit huh?! So right now I write this post from hospital where I’m optimistic of my treatment and pain management path. It’s been tough enough running my own small business through Covid and now a new little challenge arises."
Tuesday 24th June 2021
Keep Calm and Brand Yourself
Do you know who you are? Who do you address? Who is your target consumer? How would you like to be remembered? to be identified? to be recognized? What do you want your image to be associated with? What are the values you stand for? One thing gathers all the answers to these questions: IDENTITY.
A company has a corporate branding, an individual has a personal branding. People are more interested than ever in brands' values and beliefs. This also means that diversity -and diversification- are essential, and that the standardization of identities reduces the identification of the brands, the differentiation of brand values and the appreciation of their singularity.
Being true to one's identity, heritage and values sets a purpose to one's project. This gives the uniqueness, the legacy it deserves. Recognized organizations and their ambassadors, who embody their strong identity and the expression of their values, drive a lifelong experience and relationship with their customers. If constantly respected and rejuvenated over time, style trends and generations, identity is the path to ultimate legitimacy, loyalty and success. So that after years, decades, even centuries, your brand goes from strength to strength, from being a pioneer to becoming an icon.
A long-term vision and a purposeful identity are crucial for those who do not want to start up early and close down rapidly in a fast-paced and volatile environment, in an ever-changing customer experience. Cultivate the art of your brand DNA and acculturate people to its singularity and values.
"A [branding] is a flag, a signature, an escutcheon, a street sign. [It] is less important than the product it signifies; what it means is more important than what it looks like." (Paul Rand)
Your identity is meant to spark a positive recognition and emotion in your customers' mind, leading to interactions and the desire to experience your brand.
Tuesday 22nd June 2021
Gold Fever and Silver Lining
In an interview with Le Journal du Dimanche, Cyrille Vigneron, CEO at Cartier, warns against the risk of overheating in the luxury sector, due to the combined strong recovery in China, in the USA and then in most markets. This great increase in demand for luxury products is accompanied by the struggle for the supply chain to cope with the tensions in the sourcing of precious raw materials, in a similar way as what is currently experienced in other sectors and industries.
In the financial year ending March 31, Richemont Group recorded a turnover of €13+ billion (-8%), while it saw its profit rise by a flattering +38%.
Mr. Vigneron explains this success with a brand strategy refocusing on Cartier's iconic products and based on 4 pillars that will surely sound familiar to many luxury professionals (and hopefully to some students I came across):
- customer's emotional connection with the brand
- a strong, reliable, established, unaltered, historical brand image one can relate to
- high desirability with highly coveted designs
- iconic products
The silver lining is that such a strategy leads to a higher demand and a natural durability - which consumers seem to appreciate and invest in - built and further developed on iconic and timeless products, while some other brands are more dependent on seasonal developments and novelties.
Breakthrough at Tiffany's: meanwhile, their competitors address the younger generation in a more daring and bold manner, by moving away from their signature products (see link in comments).
2 strategies seem to be in competition here: very interesting to gauge both in the coming years. Do you think Time(less) is (more) money? Or a legendary brand that dares wins?
In (my) other (own) words: is a "legendaring" brand a golden goose?
Thursday 17th June 2021
Keep Calm and Create Value
Mask off, put on a happy face! Breathe and smile! As normal life slowly resumes, it is a great occasion to celebrate its return with the launch of my "Keep Calm" campaign.
A bit of history: "Keep Calm and Carry On" was a motivational poster produced by the British government in 1939 in preparation for WWII's The Blitz and intended to raise the morale of the population.
On one hand, we all hope Covid is behind us and that we will never endure the same experience again. A brighter future may finally shine at the end of the Covid tunnel. On the other hand, we have to better anticipate the changes to accelerate and still to come. We have learnt so much about the threats to our planet and humankind, about the weaknesses of our organizations, about the strengths of our multiple talents and about the new opportunities that we can imagine and create for the future.
So, after the despair of lockdowns and curfews, then the excitement of coming out, it is now time to soothe our fears and reveal our strengths, to keep calm and carry on.
Carry on doing what we are good at doing, but necessarily in a better and different way, based on what we have learnt and experienced over the last 15 months.
On week 1 of my motivational campaign, I commit to keep calm and create value: added value (uniqueness), shared value (equity), emotional value (desirability), durable value (sustainability), brand value (identity), brand new value (innovation).
It is what I love doing and what captivates me. I know it is what I will do somewhere, with some peers, for some other peers, whatever the future brings.
And you? What is your slogan for tomorrow?
Tuesday 15th June 2021
My Covid Year
How has your Covid year been? Has this year left you with imposter syndrome while you are about to go back to normality?
As I am currently open to new opportunities for my next move and in anticipation of the question "What have you done during Covid?", I would like to share some of my own KPIs for what will be remembered as "the Covid year".
There is no doubt we found ourselves outside of our comfort zone over the last 15 months and this has changed the way we work immeasurably. We have developed new (or simply discovered dormant) skills with WFH and the unprecedented challenges we had to take up with the pandemic: resilience, flexibility and more creativity are soft skills that are now clearly measurable through performance indicators. This year has also been a great opportunity to learn and to support people and businesses in making their way through this challenging time. However, although we all lived the same difficult experience with Covid, some seem to feel disconnected with the reality when office life resumes. Searches for "imposter syndrome" have increased by 150% over the last year, 85% of employees feeling incompetent at work. We must be proud of what we have achieved during this Covid year. And we look forward to a brand new future and to a workplace where one won't have self-doubt in one's abilities. Who can't wait to return to an office, after some well-deserved holidays and no syndrome thanks to a solid track record of this Covid year?
Sunday 6th June 2021
Virtual Show or Virtuous Slow?
"Fashion can’t survive for long if it’s only virtual"
Do you agree with this quote by Giorgio Armani?
As Covid has shuffled the cards of the fashion industry in the way we think, distribute, sell and buy collections, the priority is now to set a new "time for fashion" and to define the right balance for Bricks and Clicks.
While DNVBs seek more authenticity and luxury brands finally dare to operate a digital transformation, the future of many industries like fashion also depends on how much their consumers want to go back to the stores, greet and connect with brands and their sales staff. Interestingly, in my latest talks, surveys (also with Gen-Z) and works, reality seems to make a strong comeback after a year of virtuality. This reaffirms my interest and humble reflection on the equilibrium Human/Environment/Machine.
Do the fashion world and enthusiasts have to get prepared for a hangover after months of going on the digital booze? And can local retail and physical connection with brands help when digital sobriety becomes a more popular and responsible approach for our organizations? The fashion world may eventually return to where it was before the pandemic, at an even faster pace thanks to new digital solutions, but its digitalization has widened the gap between high-street and high-end: Made too fast VS Made to last.
So, which fashion queen are you?
Thursday 3rd June 2021
Savez-vous ce que le digital peut apporter à votre entreprise ou votre projet ?
Comment utiliser le digital pour booster votre activité ?
Vous aussi vous pensez que l'union fait la force ?
Nombreux sont ceux parmi vous qui me connaissent pour mon expérience en design et stratégie de marque.
Mais si la crise sanitaire a révélé la force du numérique et qu'il a même permis aux collaborations de se maintenir et s'enrichir, aux entreprises de survivre, poursuivre leurs activités voire de se développer, les membres du Collectif Digital CONSULTEAM ont décidé d'apprendre, de se former et de désormais accompagner les entreprises dans :
- leur transformation numérique
- la construction et le déploiement d'une stratégie marketing digitale porteuse de sens
- leur développement commercial
Et parce que les beaux projets naissent avant tout de belles rencontres et de la conviction qu'une association de compétences promet toujours une collaboration plus performante, notre Collectif est prêt à vous faire surfer la nouvelle vague du numérique, avec ambition, efficacité et bienveillance !
Et vous, êtes-vous prêts à relever avec nous les défis de demain et à vous laisser porter par le vent d'une liberté enfin retrouvée ?
Wednesday 12th May 2021
A business at (second)hand?
Luxe : une opportunité à portée de (seconde) main ?
Rien de mieux pour en parler que des chiffres et le pays en passe de devenir le 1er marché mondial du luxe : la Chine.
Alors que la pandémie révèle de nouveaux paradigmes de création de valeur et qu’elle accélère l’adhésion des marques aux stratégies de vente omnicanal et à des démarches durables, les 1ers signes du rebond du luxe semblent renforcer l’idée d’un lien avec les consommateurs toujours plus fort et pérenne.
Quels sont les enjeux pour les marques ?
- garder le contrôle sur leurs produits et image
- poursuivre leur lutte contre la contrefaçon
- avoir des experts capables de créer des produits qui perdront peu de valeur (voire qui en prendront) et de les authentifier
Key figures: Luxury market in China: €44 billion, 1/3 of luxury goods is purchased by Chinese, 25 to 30% of luxury goods bought by Westerners are on secondhand market vs 3% in China.
Thursday 20th May 2021
Interview: My passion for design
How would you define design?
Read my answer to this question among others about passion, creativity, sustainability, leather, creative direction, arts, education on Parsons Paris blog.
Since I started 18 months ago as a SDM faculty at Parsons Paris, in a year that will forever be marked by the pandemic, I am so grateful to have had the unique opportunity to put myself to the test: to give more and receive in return, to teach and to learn, to listen and to be heard (sometimes), to share and to value the relief of feeling helpful, to commit and to trust, to grow and to help to develop, to be resilient and optimistic at the same time.
Thank you very much to Caroline MARIE for her very interesting questions, to Karen Decter for her amazing support, to Florence Leclerc-Dickler and Anna Krutiy for their great work with students, to my fellow experts who contributed to my class Muriel Chiariglione, Victoria Abad kerblat, Thomas Eberhard, David Rosenblum, Alexandre Monnin.
Sunday 16th May 2021
Free of charge, full of energy
Managers, do you know what can make your team more efficient, productive and engaged?
A new book written by a prominent figure in management? A new school of management? A new device or app?
Find out in the attached 48s video about what can make you a better leader and successfully change the culture of collaboration, innovation and workplace.
In a survey with US workers, Gallup investigated the opportunity to reduce employee burnout and absenteeism, and to improve employee well-being.
Based on a landmark study analyzing 3,500+ business units with 50,000+ individuals, researchers identified what was related to core objectives of most organizations, especially since the pandemic.
This is relayed in the interesting article by Övül Sezer, Kelly Nault and Nadav Klein in Harvard Business Review.
Wednesday 12th May 2021
The Ace of Arts
L'Art et la Matière
Un grand merci à David Rosenblum d'avoir ouvert les portes de son atelier Atelier Bettenfeld-Rosenblum aux étudiants de Strategic Design and Management de Parsons School of Design et d'avoir partagé sa passion, son savoir-faire, son art et son expérience.
Une bien belle manière pour les étudiants de conclure un semestre dédié à la création et à l'inspiration autour de leur histoire personnelle et de leur héritage familial.
Thank you very much David for welcoming Parsons' SDM students in your atelier and for sharing your passion, know-how, craftsmanship and experience.
It is a nice way to wrap up a semester about creation, of course, and also about one's own story, heritage and source of inspirations.
Sunday 9th May 2021
Chanel's Cruise collection 2021 echoes the sustainable fashion trend with this announcement: its iconic tweed, created by Lesage Paris, will now use more than 70% of recycled and GOTS certified threads.
Personally I prefer the request for "iconic" rather than for "classic" or "timeless" designs, as a design that lives on is durable by definition.
This form of sustainability has always been underlying in Chanel's DNA with products designed to last.
Will an iconic and durable style combined with sustainable materials be the new fashion?
Wednesday 5th May 2021
Do you know your roots?
How do they influence and inspire you?
This semester at Parsons School of Design in Paris, Sophomores in Strategic Design and Management are asked to explore their own inspirations and the origin of their passion for creation.
Yesterday they have presented the outcome of their reflection and work. We have seen very inspiring projects, showing great open-mindedness, personality and rich diversity, by students from the USA, Ukraine, Colombia, Lithuania, Norway, Mexico, Lebanon, Italy, ...
It is also a great opportunity to encourage them to create change with their heart and values.
Because knowing one's background can be a valuable source of inspirations, emotions, respect and pride.
Respect your heritage to improve our future.
Sunday 2nd May 2021
Do you remember where you were 10 years ago?
Surely Kate and William do!
For me, today marks the 10th anniversary of my move from London to Paris. After 6 amazing years in London, I started on 2nd May 2011 my new position at Swarovsk in Paris.
There is no doubt my London years and experience made the designer I am today and I feel so thankful and proud for all the good memories, the great learning and the successful projects! 10 more years of experience later (and Brexit... and Covid), including more collaborations with UK based brands since 2016, this chapter of my life will always be very special and will remain a milestone in my career.
Thank you to all the talented people and inspirational teams I have had the tremendous pleasure to collaborate with!
Friday 30th April 2021
Kintobe is opening a new store
Today marks a special day for Kintobe. In a time where physical retail is dying Kintobe is making a bold move to bet on physical retail!
Kintobe is opening a store with Copenhagen Cartel, MessyWeekend Copenhagen and Karmamia. All brands committed to make the world more sustainable and to give their customers unique products and experiences!
By creating a shared universe our 4 brands are offering a place to see our assortment range in full and get inspiration from other cool local sustainable brands while enjoying a drink and chatting with likeminded.
We hope you will pop by our store!
Come join us and remember to... carry kindness.
Monday 26th April 2021
To all fashion students, young designers and freelancers.
Here is the unique opportunity to find exceptional materials from LVMH inventory at a competitive price!
Nona Source is the 1st online resale platform that promotes LVMH's environmental strategy to revolutionize sourcing and that addresses designers, so that you can create, further explore your talent and wake up these "sleeping beauties".
DARE, LVMH's intrapreneurial program, is an incubator for new projects to transform ideas into concrete solutions.
Friday 23rd April 2021
Isn't creativity essential?
Isn't creativity essential?
What is essential?
Out-of-the-box or outlaw?
Here is food for bodies (essential) and food for thought (non-essential) under one roof.
After a year of legitimate restrictions, more questionable decisions and controversial communication from a political and ethical perspective, many of us wonder: what can be judged and labelled essential or not?
In a similar way to local initiatives we have seen here and there to smartly circumvent the Covid regulations, The Design Museum in London remind the world that creativity is essential.
Responsibility is to identify problems.
Creativity is to solve those problems.
With creativity at the top of the soft skills companies are looking for in 2021, we may see more of this in the near future...
The Design Museum
Thursday15th April 2021
The future of retail
As UK stores reopen, how will Covid-19 reshape the shopping experience?
With e-commerce as the new normal for months, with the challenges the online luxury model is facing and with consumers' higher expectations for service and convenience, what will retail and direct-to-consumer be?
People are excited to come out after months of shopping online, browsing behind their screens and seeing e-commerce packaging waste at an all-time high. Are brands ready to meet their post-Covid expectations?
After "Click&Collect" era, is it time for what I am tempted to call "Greet&Connect", with consumers eager to reconnect with their local retailer and enjoy personalised service?
Those who doubt that retail can make a strong comeback may rely too much on consumers' behaviours and not enough on how humans want to socialize again and live the brand experience rather than navigate it.
The future of retail is at the end of the Covid tunnel and it may be brighter than expected by e-commerce fans, especially when wisely combined with digital solutions to enhance a true experience.
Tuesday 6th April 2021
"Rien ne vaut un rêve pour créer l'avenir."
Bien au-dessus des terres infertiles de la polémique, à Poitiers comme ailleurs, qui peut sérieusement douter que les rêves des enfants, mais aussi des adultes, ne sauraient élever notre société et l'amener à enfin concilier futur et éco-responsabilité ?
"There is nothing like a dream to create the future." (Victor Hugo)
Can dreams lead to a better and more sustainable future?
Visuel : Projet Aeolia
Se mouvoir et s'émouvoir :
comment réinventer le voyage dans les airs
Diplôme 2005 Strate Ecole de Design
Avec la collaboration de Pierre Balaskovic, ingénieur et astrophysicien, consultant en aéronautique.